Arabia Felix Magazine The Polish Ibn Battutah: A Contemporary Caravan From Yemen to Oman By JAKUB SLAWEK January 1, 2006, 01:24 As a Pole, I am rather used to snow and cold weather around December, but in 2004 we decided, with a group of friends, to reach the most eastern parts of Yemen in the Al-Mahra province and head to Oman. I had this idea of traversing the southern end of the Arabian Peninsula for some time and Xmas was  perfect timing. Being in Yemen since March 2004 I travelled a lot but everything beyond Mukalla was a synonym of unknown places and it is from there that the true adventure begins – this turned out to be a very true expression. Leaving Mukalla at dawn we headed to Al-Ghayda (capital of Al-Mahra province). The road and the landscape guaranteed breathtaking views, on our right hand side the vastness of the Ocean and on our left barren volcanic mountains. The road lead through tiny fishermen’s villages burnt by the sun in which one can feel that the sea determines the rhythm of life. The road was beautifully winding around numerous bays with fishermen’s boats floating on the water. The further from Mukalla the rarer were human settlements. Al-Mahra province, a truly deserted place, just the ocean, endless beaches, desert sands and a new road lost somewhere between theses divine landscapes. This spectacular, scenic road is something unique, providing exceptional views comprising the magnificent combination of the ocean and steep mountains descending towards the water. Every dozen of kilometres soldiers at military checkpoints were rather surprised to see us, but they were always friendly and willing to assist. But the most exiting part of the trip was about to begin. Reaching the village of Haswayn the road was only partly finished, and then we were asked to wait for a military escort through the Fartak mountain range. I didn’t want to believe when the military people told me that the 80km strip through the mountain will take us 7 hours, but it did. Crossing the Fartak range was an extreme 4WD adventure with endless dirt trails going up and down and without the escort we would surely got lost. The views were spectacular, especially at sunset we were rewarded by an impressive show of lights. Nightfall caught us descending the Fartak range on our way to Nishtun, but with the help of the escort we managed to reach the asphalt road again. For those concerned about crossing the Fartak range, I have good news. A system of tunnels is already open between Haswayn and Nishtun, so there’s no need anymore for extreme adventure travel, but it still remains a major attraction to cross it. Dead tired we arrived in Al-Ghayda, but after having our Christmas supper at a small restaurant in which we had the best lobster ever, we decided to push on to the border. The last hundred kilometres of Yemen between Al-Ghayda and Hawf were no less exiting with fantastic rock formations descending to the ocean and all of it under full moon – unforgettable. The next few days we spent driving through Oman reaching eventually Muscat in which after spending two days, we headed back for Yemen. Having so little time we managed to visit the city only, which is a fine combination of modern and Middle-Eastern architecture. Our journey back started at dawn in the Omani capital and after a whole day between desert sands, by night we reached the northern border in Mazyuna/MakinatShihan. Crossing the Yemeni-Oman border in both ways was surprisingly easy,  with only necessary documents and visas needed. Just after entering Yemen again we felt back at home, especially when we saw a big sign saying “The Republic of Yemen welcomes you”. But there was still some 1600 kilometres to Sana’a through the Rub’ Al-Khali highway. Indeed we were surprised by the quality of this road taken away from the desert and winding between sand dunes, rock formations and tiny villages. Views and the changing desert landscape in the Al-Mahra and Hadramaut provinces are something absolutely fabulous and make the journey fascinating. Just to be on that road was a thrilling experience. It was a fascinating 10 days, during which we travelled nearly 6000 kilometres through the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. We have learnt that the most astonishing views and sites in Yemen are hidden far away in the desert and coastal region of Al-Mahra. Those are places, which need more attention and time and the road is a factor facilitating access to those remote areas. At the same time a question arises, do we really want those areas to be spoiled by huge tourist resorts or rather shall they remain as they are? There is no good and unique answer to such a question, but it is enough to say that nature provides there views that leave a trace in the memory. We’ll go again surely, care joining us? Copyright © 2005 - 2007 Arabia Felix. http://www.arabia-felix.com