In a world where opportunities for adventure are dwindling and tourist destinations are becoming the homogenized product of mass culture, it is surprising that tourist traffic to Yemen remains such a scant trickle. Those who have visited this country know that it has everything: stunning landscapes, rich history, vibrant culture, and exceptional hospitality. What many people don�t know, however, is that Yemen also has a rich diversity of wildlife. Nowhere is this more evident than in the number and variety of birds that can be seen here.

Over 400 species of birds have been recorded in Yemen, with new species being added to the national list almost annually. There are several reasons for this impressive diversity, including the fact that Yemen is at the intersection of three biogeographical regions: Africa, Asia, and the Western Palearctic. In other words, southwestern Arabia has birds that are typical of three continents: Africa, Asia, and Europe.

Another important reason for Yemen�s surprising collection of birdsis topography; its mountainous terrainhas led to the evolution of many uniquespecies, endemics that can be foundnowhere else. The mainland has a totalof 13 endemics, with Socotra having anadditional seven. Yemen�s spectacularlandscape holds a great variety ofhabitats, each of which harbors speciesthat are unique to it. Thousands ofkilometers of coastline, scores of islands,and mountains that soar up to 3,666meters ensure that Yemen is blessedwith diverse environments that host aspectacular variety of birds.

A final factor that accounts for Yemen�srich birdlife is that Yemen is situated ona globally important flyway for birdsmigrating between Eurasia and Africa.Each spring and autumn many millions ofbirds pass through Yemen en route to andfrom summer breeding grounds. Manyof these spend their winters in Yemenbecause of the mild climate and abundantfood here, especially on the coast.As one of the world�s fastest growinghobbies, one that annually accountsfor billions of euros worth of business,birding is enjoyed at many differentlevels. The most devoted birders willstop at nothing to add new species to theirlife lists, and in recent decades quite a fewworld birders have visited Yemen to enjoyits bird life. One need not be a fanatic toappreciate Yemen�s birds, however. Allyou need is a pair of binoculars, a bit oftime, and a little knowledge about where,when, and what to look for.

The endemics can be seen year round. Most of Yemen's endemics are mountaindwellingbirds that can be spotted inthe terraced landscapes of the westernescarpment. Mahwit and Manakha areespecially good places for such localspecialties as the Arabian Woodpecker,the Yemen Thrush, and the YemenWarbler. These are tree-loving birds thatare partial to the dense foliage of acacias.South Arabian Wheatear, Philby�sPartridge, Arabian Partridge, and ArabianAccentor are other endemics that aremore inclined to inhabit rocky areas withsparse vegetation. Although the formerthree are widespread in Yemen, a goodplace to look is around Kawkaban as thisis also one of only five known locationsfor the Arabian Accentor.

While all of Yemen�s endemics areattractive birds, one of the most strikingis the Arabian Golden Sparrow, a bird ofthe coastal plains. Large flocks of thesebright Yellow birds nest colonially in thescrub north of Hodeidah. Look for theiruntidy nests in acacia trees throughoutthe Tihama.

For sheer variety of birds, the best timeto watch is during migration. Althoughmany types of birds migrate throughYemen, one of the best wildlife spectacleson the Arabian Peninsula is the massmigration of raptors at Bab al Mandabeach October. More than a quarter of amillion birds of prey representing perhaps30 species of kite, buzzard, hawk, eagle,falcon, and harrier pass through Babal Mandab during a five-week period.These birds choose to migrate across thenarrowest point of the southern Red Seabecause they are wary of crossing largebodies of water. Pelicans, herons, ibises,and storks join the throng for a sight thatmust be seen to be believed. For climaticreasons, the spring raptor migration islargely up the western shore of the RedSea, and apart from a few thousandEgyptian Vultures and Booted Eagles anda sprinkling of hawks, it misses Yemenalmost entirely.

Another excellent time to watch birdsin Yemen, especially at wetlands, isbetween migrations from Septemberto March. These are the months whenmigrants are stopped at their winterhabitats and the show can be spectacular.Up to 10,000 Lesser Flamingoes havebeen counted in Aden among largerbut less numerous Greater Flamingoes.Sacred and Glossy Ibises, with a hostof other showy species, can be found inwetlands around Hodeidah, Aden, andTaiz. Winter is also a good time for birdsof prey, and it is possible to see as manyas ten different species of eagles during aday trip from Sana�a to Hodeidah.Of course, to see Yemen�s birds attheir best, one must really go birdingin the spring and early summer, fromlate April to July. This is the time thatbirds molt into their breeding plumageand their colors are at their brightest.Courting males tune up their voices andthe bush resounds with song. This isalso the time when a number of trulybeautiful birds crosses over from Africato breed in Yemen. Perhaps none is asdazzling as the Amethyst Starling, a birdwhose iridescent purple plumage seemsto burn with its own light. Grey-headedKingfishers, with electric blue feathersand huge crimson beaks, seem to preferthe middle elevations at places like AlKhaimah and Wadi Sara, but they canalso be seen in the wadis surroundingSana�a. Another gorgeous summer visitorfrom Africa is Bruce�s Green Pigeon, alsoknown as Yellow-bellied Green Pigeon.These fruit eating birds have leaf-greenbacks with purple shoulders and dazzlingyellow bellies.

While each season produces its ownarray of birds, the show in Yemen isalways worth watching. Whether it�s thespring finery of our breeding residents,the summer invasion of African beauties,the autumn spectacle of migrating raptors,or the hordes of wintering waders, Yemenalways has something to offer birders.So, when you pack your bags, don�tforget the binoculars.

David Stanton is a teacher at Sana�aInternational School and Chairman ofthe Yemen Ornithological Society (P.O.Box 2002, Sana�a; email: yos@y.net.ye)